petersburg, day 5

The last day in Petersburg, Christine and I wandered around the Russian State museum. This was after we slept in, checked out of the hotel, bought a phone card, and made a freaking-complicated pay phone call to Natalya, whose baby was sick and couldn't meet us. The woman at the Russian Museum who helped us was crazy nice. The Russian Museum was OK. There was only one picture that I remembered, maybe two. Oh, that barge-pullers on the Volga something or other, I recognized that from a propaganda poster.

I'm in Chicago now and the plane is getting ready to board, and my computer is about to die.

I went to see Ella and Sasha, my old host mom and her son. It was wonderful, but short-lived. She gave me sweets, as she remembered I loved them. Happy happy.

Then a slightly-worrisome taxi ride to the train station, and Christine and I got onto the train with a woman and her sullenly inquisitive teenage daughter.

Oh, but we're going now.

So I'll finish later, with more details.

petersburg, 4

It is late. It is cold.

So much could be said, but must not be. So instead, superfically, I will leave you with this conversation (broken Russian) between me and the Russian waiter we took "out" for drinks tonight.

Waiter: Why do you look so sad?
Me: Me? Oh, that's just my face.

We had company visits today--a belabored speech in English about branding in Russia, and a rather funny speech (with an overheated room) about the IT industry in Russia, before, during and after perestroika. Then it was home again, and eventually to the Vodka Museum for dinner, with Maya, Ana, Christine, and Edward. Then to the Sky Bar again, where we bought Sergey (the waiter we stole from the Vodka Museum) some espresso, and looked at his photographs (Nikon D90). Then we had the conversation. I guess I told this story backwards. But there's not much to it. I just started out with the most interesting part (that I can talk about on a blog anyway. the rest goes in the imaginary diary).

Petersburg, 3

The weather was amazing today! Warm and springy (not like a sponge, like the season). We went to the Hermitage, where all of our feet hurt. I was impressed with one guy from our group who reeked of alcohol, but who stood through the entire 3 hour tour (a 3 hour tour!).* There was serious attrition of the group. First off, about 5 people stayed home entirely, hungover, despite having paid 16 euros for the tour. Second of all, people got bored looking at pictures of the baby Jesus and wandered off to do their own thing. Christine was disappointed not to see more Russian art, but hopefully we will have time to go to the Russian State Museum on our last free day before the train.

*Yes, that was a reference to Gilligan's Island

Then we went to a Georgian restaurant with a huge group, which predictably (though we held out hope otherwise) took forever. The group asked me lots of questions about the menu, which I could not answer. Christine and I got a pretty good variety of veggie appetizers, and I had a glass of wine for some reason. She had some "Georgian vodka." It was called chub-chub or something. Wait, no, that was Andy's hamster that probably had diabetes. I guess this was called chacha.

I came home to work on my essays, but fell asleep for about 10 hours. I realize Christine has done me a wonderful service by being wide-eyed about all things Russia, and keeping me from taking naps in the afternoon. She did a better thing than I by taking advantage of the afternoon sunshine. But sometimes you just have to take a 10 hour nap, wake up at 2am, and work on your midterm that you somehow didn't get out of despite being in MFing RUSSIA!

I can't believe I'll be home in a week. I can't believe I've been here a week. We've done so much in that week, I feel like.

In other non-Russia news, the CIA wrote me back about my job application, and I might have the option for a few fellowships. They might send me back to India, which I'm still very ambivalent about. I have also nearly finished my application for the fellowship I hope to get next Fall, which would allow me to put off the end of my schooling for one more semester. I am less ambivalent about this fellowship, though nervous about my chances of getting it, and nervous about my appropriateness if I do get it.

One thing about traveling in a group is you have about 10 pictures of you taken a day. Which means you should always look your best, which is annoying and difficult for me. Good thing I brought my makeup (I almost didn't). There are a lot of cute people on this trip, and I don't want to look too hideous next to them.

Petersburg, 2

Today, went to Pushkin and the Idiot, two of my favorite places. But we didn't walk around the grounds at Pushkin, which is what I like about it. Instead we looked at two boring-ass palaces. I've seen enough palaces for a lifetime. I was very angry about this, even though I got a few good shots of the snow-covered grounds from the palace. FYI, the weather is somehow perfect even in winter.

But it is nearly spring.

At the Idiot, we were with Ricardo, Ana, Edward, Christine, and Michael. We were low-key and sober, though Christine and I split a bottle of champagne.

Also, today, we went and bought our train tickets, which was really taxing my Russian skills. But I managed, and feel very proud. Everyone was very nice to me after. It means no hotel that night, and we get back to Sergeev Posad pretty easily. Christine and I paid extra for a ladies wagon.

Then we went to the hotel's Sky Bar, which had a lovely view. Michael informed me that there was a fire in a trashcan outside the hotel, but didn't seem overly concerned about it, as he mentioned it halfway through a conversation. Once again, the conversation veered towards gossip, about which people we did and didn't like, and the latest reasons for said sentiments. Drama! Like you wouldn't believe! Email me for more details. I'll send you the canned version.

Tomorrow the Hermitage. Last night a very, very low-key evening with just me and Christine and Edward, talking about gymnastics, as he knew a lot about it, as he is on the UT team. He also has translated at a bunch of competitions (he is half Brazilian and half Thai) and has met most of the famous girls.

My one contactless eye (still scratched from India) keeps drooping, and I look a bit like Thom Yorke. That is my signal to go to bed. It is nearly midnight.

I can't wait to be asleep. It is my favorite.

dialogue with me and my roommate:

rm: do I look slutty?
Me: Yes, totally. It's awesome.
rm: fuck! Ok, really?
Me: Ummmm....kind of, yeah.
rm: OK, let's go.

Moscow, 3 and 4

Yesterday, despite the previous bachanalian night, nearly everyone was up for the 9am speakers we had on the current business climate in Russia. Some were interesting, some were not so interesting. I asked two questions, and managed to prevent ALL the blood from rushing to my face as I asked them.

In the afternoon, we did something I can't remember, and then Christine and I walked down Arbat (both new and old). Old was clearly superior (walking down New Arbat was like being inside a casino), and we had the nice experience of having very helpful folks give us directions. I also had the experience of getting that melted-candy-bar-like hot chocolate.

When we got back, it was about time to go to the ballet. The Bolshoi Ballet! To see Don Quixote! Only! I was sick! (sore throat that I arrived with) and tired (always), and left after the first act with Nihar (MBA). I got a good night's sleep for once. But felt bad about missing most of the ballet. I gave my ticket to an old lady, so at least someone enjoyed the ticket. Maya's dad had bought everyone those tickets! Which was amazingly generous of him. He bought tickets, transportation, and security for a hockey game for half the group tonight. And some of the rest of us he's taking out to dinner. AND he set up a business lunch with some vice presidents of BP in Russia for some of our practicum groups.

There's some high drama going on amongst some of the ladies of this group. That along with the irresponsible drinking makes me feel about 17 (or really, 14, and my first trip to Russia). Such silliness. Such silliness. What a rogue! Silence!

I feel like I'm already messing up some of this entry. Like, I think Christine and I did Arbat the day before yesterday, and then did the entire length of Tverskaya yesterday, looking for me a Russian-like coat (mine stands out too much for my taste, though it keeps me nice and warm). A black fur-collared thing would be perfect, and there are so many skidki (sales), I surely can find one, right?

The point is, even though I feel like I don't have as much in common with many of the MBAs as I hoped, I have a group of people who will be my BFFs on this trip--Maya, Christine, Michael, and maybe even Ana, who I don't know well enough. I'm looking forward to meeting Maya's generous dad at dinner tonight. And her stepmom and sister.

Tomorrow night we take the overnight train to St. Petersburg. I can't wait to be back there.

moscow, 1 and 2

The flight was practically empty (I got my two seats to myself--bet those trust fund kids that upgraded to first class felt like suckers!). Passport control was fast and trouble free. My bag was one of the first dozen off. We all gathered to get onto the bus, and I realized that about half this class (which has met for three hours every week for 6 weeks) looks completely unfamiliar to me. I know all the girls, none of the guys.

Maya (born in Azerbaijan, but came here when she was 2) is my rooomate. Her dad lives in Moscow and she's spending lots of time with him. She used to be a news anchor in Waco, and she's super nice. I'm lucky she's my roommate because she's one of my two favorite people on the trip (other being Christine). Maya and I are able to have secret conversations about people right in front of them because we both speak Russian.

There's this one guy who has been drunk the whole time so far. Which is incredible. And embarassing, because the whole bus smells like a frat party every time he belches.

Christine and I walked around, to Red Square yesterday. Then last night, we went to Turandot, an amazing baroque restaurant. We were treated to a variety of acts, including a string quartet consisting of supermodels and a background of techno/karaoke music. Then the a capella Russian Backstreet Boys. All as we ate one of those teensy-portioned rich-person-restaurant meals. But it was aesthetically pleasing, and isn't that what people really want in their food?

When we walked in, a lady took a picture of me, Maya, and Christine (we had taken Maya's dad's car, while the rest of the group walked, like suckers!). The lady posed us in awkward ways, and we figured we were going to be sold photos at the end of the night. But it seems we in fact may be featured in some society page online. I doubt we'll make the cut. But that's the kind of place the restaurant was.

We also got roses and perfume bottles, because it's international women's day (March 8, plus the monday after in this case).

Today, we had a metro tour, and we saw the church of Christ the savior, which was (re) built in the 90's. So, it's brand new. We spent way too much time there than was necessary.

I skipped the afternoon Kremlin trip, ostensibly to do my take-home essay that's due, but in reality, to listen to hypnotism CDs and sleep for a couple of hours. I was doing so well about the jetlag (got up at 6:30 aned worked out this morning). Despite the fact that I woke up every hour on the hour last night, I was able to go back to sleep relatively quickly.

Christine and I walked to the Arbat streets, after asking directions from two people--one youth, and one very nice lady who followed us and made sure we got from New Arbat to Old Arbat. It was a nice walk down the pedestrian street, despite all the chain stores. I got some cough medicine, and I think she told me to disolve it in water and take it once per day, but I'm going to get Maya to help me read the label nonetheless. The conversation went something like

Me: I don't have the words for that which I need, but I have coughing {fake coughs}
Lady: Yes, I understand coughing. What do you need from me?
Me: Medicine.
Lady: Obviously. But, do you want {incomprehensible}
Me: Maybe. What's that?
Lady: {sighs, gets a box of medicine} Here. {gives instructions}

So, for all I know, she gave me strychine. Which I don't even know how to spell in English, what are my chances in Russian?

Speaking of dialogues, here is one from my Russian lessons:

Me: I read some of your cookies last night!
Tutor: {understands what I mean, but frowns gravely} You have made a big mistake.

Christine and I just got back from our walk, and are resting before going out with a guy who lives here in Moscow, but it applying to school at McCombs (the business school, which I'm traveling with), so is interested in getting to know some of the students. Christine and I get along because we are both hyper-aware of being in the group of Loud Americans. And mortified by the alcoholics on our trip.